Saturday, March 28, 2009

How to Get Naturally Glowing Skin

The most natural-looking glow, of course, comes from well-cared-for skin. Here's how to get it.

Be prepared to put in a little work on the front end. “It usually takes three to six weeks to see results,” says Casey Gallagher, a dermatologist in Boulder, Colorado. But the radiant results are worth it. Here’s what to do.

Stick to gentle cleansers. Use a nonsoap product (like Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser) morning and night to wash away grime without irritating skin.

Smooth skin. In the morning, apply a lotion that contains alpha hydroxy acids to slough off dead skin cells.

Even out your skin tone. If you have dark pigmentation spots, ask your dermatologist for a prescription-strength skin lightener (which usually contains hydroquinone). Or try an over-the-counter lightener with hydroquinone. Products with vitamin C or licorice extract may help, too.

Don’t forget sunscreen. Wear one with SPF 30 daily to protect your skin’s tone and texture.

Get your antioxidants. Look for a free-radical fighter, like vitamin C, or promising ones, like coffeeberry and idebenone, in your day or night cream. Antioxidants protect skin from sun damage and help refine its tone.

Use an over-the-counter retinol or a prescription-strength retinoid at bedtime. These products encourage cell turnover and collagen production. Begin by applying a pea-size amount every other night, as retinoids can be irritating at first.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Younger Skin at Any Age

Dermatologists offer advice on how to keep skin smooth and healthy.

Growing old gracefully isn't a lost art?it's just a forgotten one. For all those women who think the scalpel or the syringe is the only way to stay "young," here's a news flash: "About 80 percent of aging is caused by environmental factors, things you have control over," says Leslie Baumann, a dermatologist and the director of the University of Miami Cosmetic Center, in Florida. Real Simple went to eight female dermatologists to find out their own at-home anti-aging routines. They all offer a sensible approach: Protect your skin, use the right skin-care ingredients, and get on with your life.

Twelve Ways to Delay Aging :

Wear sunscreen every day. You've heard it before: Sun exposure is the number one cause of premature aging. Ultraviolet light from the sun?or a tanning bed?breaks down collagen and elastin, the substances that keep skin smooth and firm. To help minimize damage and wrinkles, stay out of the sun and follow these tips.

Apply sunscreen liberally. A too-thin layer of SPF (sun protection factor) 15 is equal to only about SPF 7. Use a shot glass-size amount to cover your body and a teaspoonful to cover your face.

Don't forget your legs. "We find more cases of malignant melanomas on women's legs than on their faces," says Heidi Waldorf, director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center, in New York City.

Don't rely on SPF-enhanced makeup. Chances are you don't wear enough of it to defend your skin.

Choose sunglasses with UV protection. Good sunglasses help prevent cataracts, and they also keep you from squinting, which can, over time, break down the collagen around your eyes and cause crow's-feet.

Avoid smoky situations. If you smoke, quit. And nonsmokers should be aware that chronic exposure to secondhand smoke can damage skin. According to Karyn Grossman, a Santa Monica-based dermatologist, smoke, like the sun, bombards you with free radicals that make skin sallow, break down its collagen, and slow its ability to heal. To fend off damage, Grossman suggests products containing antioxidants, which neutralize free radicals. Her favorite antioxidants are vitamin C, vitamin E, and green tea. "The studies back up their efficacy the most," she says.

Be conscious of repetitive movements. Between smiling, frowning, and talking, your face makes thousands of movements a day. Over time, these repetitive motions lead to deeper lines. It would be unrealistic (not to mention Stepford-like) to stop showing your emotions, but some habits can be curbed. "We're not saying, 'Don't live; don't move,'" says Debra Jaliman, a New York City dermatologist. "But if you're constantly drinking through a straw, chewing gum, or smoking, you're breaking down the collagen around your mouth. And the wrinkles will come earlier."

Stop picking! It's hard to resist the urge to do a little at-home surgery on a pimple, but the mark it might leave is the most persuasive reason not to. "As you age, acne scars often end up looking more like wrinkles," says Grossman. "If you have a pimple on your cheek near where a wrinkle forms, it will make the wrinkle deeper."

Cleanse with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). They help remove the top layer of dead skin cells to reveal a fresh layer underneath. "Alpha hydroxy acids (such as glycolic acid) unclog pores and help your skin look smoother," says Alyson C. Penstein, a dermatologist in New York City. Note: If you have oily or acne-prone skin, try a cleanser with a beta hydroxy acid (BHA).

Use an anti-aging cream at night. New anti-aging creams arrive on cosmetics counters all the time?with bigger claims and heftier price tags. But good old retinoids, which contain a vitamin A derivative, are still the gold standard. "Many studies support retinoids, and they have withstood the test of time," says Marianne O'Donoghue, an associate professor of dermatology at the Rush University Medical Center, in Chicago. Retinoids encourage the skin to renew itself, smoothing fine lines and helping to repair sun damage. They are found in prescription creams, such as Renova and Retin-A, and in lower concentrations in over-the-counter retinol creams. Note: Retinoids can be irritating at first, so apply sparingly. They also leave skin vulnerable to sunburn. If your skin is extra-sensitive, try a milder cream containing kinetin, an ingredient found in plants that has been shown to smooth lines.

Try a weekly exfoliation treatment. Most professional antiaging treatments?including chemical peels and microdermabrasion?shed skin to clear up uneven pigmentation and encourage collagen growth. Now there are effective treatments that are gentle enough to use at home. Robin Ashinoff, director of cosmetic dermatology at the Hackensack University Medical Center, in New Jersey, suggests using a chemical exfoliator. There are also polishing creams that aim to achieve results similar to those of professional microdermabrasion, which manually sloughs off skin with superfine particles. Over time, your skin should respond by thickening slightly. "Thickening is good," explains Mary Ellen Brademas, a New York City dermatologist. "Thicker skin shows fewer wrinkles."

Remember the rest of your body. "Everything you do for your face, you should also do for your neck, chest, and hands," says Baumann. "Those are the primary spots that show aging." At the very least, moisturize: Hydrated skin looks plumper and smoother.

Saturday, March 21, 2009

Beauty Products Everyone Needs


Like air, water, and a DVR, some beauty products are absolute essentials.

There are some beauty products you may be able to do without (see Find Out Which Beauty Products You Really Need). Others, not so much. Dermatologists and cosmetics chemists told Real Simple that, whatever your skin type, you most definitely need:

Gentle cleanser: No matter if it's a bar, a liquid, or a gel, a cleanser should suit your skin type and be mild enough to use two times a day.

Daily facial moisturizer with SPF 30: A high SPF ensures that skin is protected every day of the year. "Ones with antioxidants, like green tea, are terrific because they offer a second line of defense against UV damage," says David E. Bank, M.D., director of the Center for Dermatology, Cosmetic and Laser Surgery, in Mount Kisco, New York.

Broad-spectrum sunscreen: Pick up another sunscreen to use in place of your daily one on days when you're outside for an extended time, like on vacation or in the summer. "It's the single best anti-aging product on the planet," says Ranella Hirsch, M.D., vice president of the American Society of Cosmetic Dermatology and Aesthetic Surgery. Look for one with stable UVA shields, like Mexoryl and Helioplex, which can be used on the body, too.

Lip balm with SPF: You want the highest SPF you can find, since lips are ultrasensitive and susceptible to UV damage.

Hand cream with SPF: It will help keep your hands from revealing your age. "Be sure to hydrate nails well, too, to prevent splitting and ridges," says Jeannette Graf, an assistant professor of dermatology at New York University Medical Center, in New York City.

Body moisturizer: To fend off dry, itchy skin, use one with a rich mix of humectants (like glycerin) and occlusives (like petrolatum) twice a day.

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

How to Master Business Casual

Do’s and don’ts for dressing down professionally.

Getting to dress down for work is supposed to be a perk, but sometimes figuring out what safely falls within the guidelines of “business casual” feels more like a chore. Always ask for your company’s specific policy: Some garments (like cotton chinos and linen skirts) are universally acceptable under the dress code, while others (like jeans and open-toe shoes) are hit-and-miss. If your firm gives jeans the nod, fashion stylist Joseph Williamson says, “they should fit well and not be too low-cut or have holes in them. And they should be dressed up with a nice shirt or even a jacket.”

The prevailing rule of thumb for business casual is dressed-down professional wear, not a wardrobe free-for-all. “Do a gut check with yourself before you leave the house. Would you be comfortable wearing this in front of a client, or does it feel like it’s for friends? "Save the extremes for the weekend,” advises Peri Hansen, a senior client partner at Korn/Ferry International, an executive-search firm in Los Angeles. That includes flip-flops, spaghetti straps, message tees, and anything tight, short, or revealing. On the A-OK list: casual blazers, knit blouses, tailored Bermuda shorts, trousers, jumper-style dresses, and denim skirts, if not short or frayed.

“You never want to try to ‘get away’ with anything,” says Lizzie Post of the Emily Post Institute. When in doubt, says Kim Mains, manager of legal recruiting for Cozen O’Connor, a law firm in Philadelphia, “take cues from what your female colleagues are wearing?especially those women whom you admire. And remember that it’s always better to be overdressed than underdressed.” The big payoff for all this strategic censorship? When done right, business-casual attire can score you points with colleagues and higher-ups. Says Paul Howalt, the owner of Tactix Creative, a branding firm in Mesa, Arizona: “Just as long as it’s not sloppy, we encourage well-executed individuality.”

Tips for Trying on Clothes Quickly

Advice to help get you out of the dressing room as fast as possible.

Take a look at yourself in the mirror in your regular clothing before you undress. Do the mirrors or the lighting seem especially flattering, or just awful? This way, you'll have some means of comparison when you try on store items.
Wear tops, bottoms, and shoes you can get in and out of easily. Opt for a skirt instead of pants, a pullover instead of a button-down, ballet flats rather than sneakers.
Choose the right undergarments. Don't go dress shopping in a sports bra. A convertible bra will work with various necklines, and you'll be able to get an idea of how the dress (or a blouse) will look. Similarly, if you're shopping for a swimsuit, wear a thong or bikini briefs as opposed to boy shorts.
Use clear deodorant and wear minimal makeup. When pulling shirts on and off, you don't want to worry about ruining any merchandise.
Keep jewelry to a minimum. Necklaces and large earrings get in the way when you're trying on tops.

Choosing and Caring for a Handbag

Tips from designers and manufacturers on how to get the best bag for your buck.

Choosing Your Bag
Bags with piping wear faster along the corners, but piping is fairly easy to repair or replace.
White topstitching on a bag soils quickly, making the bag look older than it is. But the stitching can be cleaned or replaced by a professional.
Stay away from bags with handles that are not stitched along the edges of the straps. Handles that are only glued will eventually separate. "Nothing is stronger than stitching," says Tony Pecorella, owner of Modern Leather Goods, in New York City.
"The fewer moving parts, the better," says Christopher Moore, owner of Artbag, a handbag repair shop in New York City. Fewer pieces means less possibility of breakage.
Pebbled leather will wear better over time. It shows fewer scratches and rain spots. Smooth leather, like calfskin, can be sensitive to scratches but is easily restored by a handbag specialist.

Caring for Your Bag
About once or twice a year, treat your leather bag with a neutral (colorless) shoe polish (such as Meltonian; $2.50) to keep it conditioned.
For repairs and stains, avoid the dry cleaner and shoe repair shop (there's too high a risk of damage from the wrong machines or tools). Instead, take it to a handbag professional, like Artbag, in New York City. People send bags to Artbag from around the country.
Never store a leather handbag in plastic, which can dry the bag out or stick to the leather. Stuff the bag with tissue paper or an old T-shirt to maintain its shape. Place the handbag in the felt bag it came in or a pillowcase and store upright.

How Long Does Moisturizer Stay Good ?

Q. How long can you keep a bottle of body lotion or moisturizer?

A. Most skin-care products, even those with natural ingredients, contain preservatives to keep them fresher longer. “But like anything in nature, even preservatives lose their optimal function over time," says Fran E. Cook-Bolden, a New York City dermatologist. When it comes to body moisturizer, throw away unfinished containers that have been open for more than two years. (If you’re using a lotion on a regular basis, though, odds are you’ll need to replenish it before it expires.) An expired lotion doesn’t hurt or damage skin, but the product won’t lock in moisture or hydrate as thoroughly. Sealed and unopened bottles should be good for three years.

If, however, you notice changes in your moisturizer’s smell or texture before the two- or three-year mark, toss it. The more active ingredients a lotion contains (like SPF) and the more bacteria introduced (as when you put your fingers into a jar), the less stable the lotion will be and the more quickly it will expire. Check the product’s back label to find out how many active ingredients there are. Also, opt for pumps or tubes, which keep germs out effectively, over screw-top tubs that your fingers have to reach into. Finally, if you’re not storing the lotion in a cool spot (about 10 degrees lower than normal room temperature), the lotion will probably spoil faster than usual.

A Fashion Faux Pas that Isn't

Some fashion slip-ups are just flat-out wrong (visible panty lines, anyone?). Mixing neutrals isn't one of them.

You're on your way out the door when you step outside and?yikes!?realize you're wearing black pumps with your navy suit. Although the voices in your head are yelling "Cease and desist!" you don't have to head back inside and scramble through your closet for navy pumps. "You can mix black, brown, and navy, as long as you make the color combination look intentional," insists fashion expert JoAnna Nicholson.

A good place to start: accessories. To pull a look together, Nicholson recommends wearing at least two accessories in the contrasting color, "like chocolate suede pumps and a brown leopard-print scarf with a black suit," or black pumps and a black belt with navy separates. Now silence your inner fashion police and walk out the door with confidence.